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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.